It’s been a while since I wrote about some of the perfume ingredients that I have been experimenting with in perfume blends.
GERANIUM ABSOLUTE is extracted from the leaves and tops of geranium flowers. It’s a natural material from Egypt, but much more potent and penetrating than the better-known steam-distilled geranium essential oils. Fresh, sweet, rosy, and green – it is said by some to be reminiscent of lychees and berries.
I am now using this absolute in my Geranium de La Reunion, along with a few other minor improvements I have made to the formula. Natural aromatics such as geranium absolute are complex and nuanced, and they add a depth and dimension that are not always possible with synthetics. Geranium flowers are native to South Africa but cultivated in Egypt, Reunion Island, Morocco, and Madagascar.
TABANON is a synthetic aroma chemical from fragrance manufacturer Symrise, a lovely tobacco base note that I have been experimenting with. Very warm, liqueur, sweet and almost “prune-like”, it is still going strong on the scent strip after three weeks. I will have to experiment with this some more before I have the confidence to actually use it. Years ago, I had promised to recreate the scent of tobacco and post the results on this blog, but never got around to it. Smelling this tobacco aroma material has inspired me to re-start this small project, so fingers crossed in 2017 I will get around to unfinished business….
CASHMERAN, aka musk indanone, is a well-known synthetic meant to evoke the “smooth, velvety feel” of cashmere wool. Produced by International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), it has a clean, woody, musky and powdery aroma and is used in small amounts. Some also say spicy but I didn’t get that too much. I haven’t experimented with this one too much yet, but I find it intriguing. IFF has this to say about cashmeran: “Diffusive, spicy, musk-like odour with strong floral reinforcement. Powdery, velvet nuance, long-lasting. Aromatic, apple, earthy, woody, red fruit, pine”.
Venetian Bergamot by Tom Ford, Boucheron Quatre by Boucheron, and Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan are some commercial perfumes that contain cashmeran.