Yesterday I was working with some essential oils and I blended some rosewood essential oil with some vetiver essential oil and vanilla absolute. Much to my surprise I found that the combination of these three materials smelled a lot like coffee beans. It was a very basic, dark-roasted, earthy, bitter and pungent aroma of coffee beans, but an accord nevertheless.
Experimenting with different combinations of materials is a great way to learn and discover which notes create an accord, sometimes in a manner that you didn’t expect. A coffee scent was definitely not what I was thinking about when I blended the rosewood, vetiver and vanilla. But that’s what I ended up with, much to my surprise.
Last year I began working on the very rough draft of a perfume inspired by the aroma of Jamaican coffee beans and I was hoping to release the finished product later on this year. For this scent though I was using a coffee essential oil for the coffee note. But now that I have accidentally discovered this new coffee accord, I might use that instead of the coffee essential oil and see how it ends up.
Incidentally, most rosewood trees are now endangered sadly; the oil I was using I purchased many years ago. Rosewood is made up of up to 85 to 90 percent linalool, and so is ho leaf oil which isn’t endangered. So it’s now recommended that you use linalool or ho leaf oil and not rosewood oil for perfumery.